1. Turn on the thermostat.
Switch from cooling to heating and set the temperature a couple of degrees higher than the current room temperature. If you don’t hear the heat kick on within a minute, pull off the cover and make sure the wire connections are secure (if you feel comfortable doing so). If the connections are snug, make sure the power source to the HVAC system is turned on. If it’s still not working, you could check the furnace fan, blower or heat pump but it likely makes better sense to call in a Green Apple Mechanical professional.
2. Change the air filters.
You probably have air filters behind a vent grill in the wall or ceiling or a single filter in the HVAC system itself. Change these filters every few months. Or, if you have a permanent electrostatic filter, you can wash and reuse it. Cleaning or replacing your filters regularly keeps particles out of your HVAC system and can prolong its life. While you’re at it, change your humidifier filter and set the humidistat, if your HVAC includes a humidifier.
3. Cover the AC condenser.
Unless your HVAC is a heat pump (in which case, don’t cover it at all because it runs all year), cover the condenser to protect it from falling icicles. A large trash can lid secured with bungee cords works quite well for this function. You can also use a board to cover the fan but don’t wrap it in a moisture-trapping plastic tarp.
4. Clean the heat exchanger.
“The heat exchanger should be brushed and vacuumed out annually by a trained Green Apple Mechanical professional while the unit is disabled. While it’s being cleaned, a Green Apple Mechanical technician will look for cracks, which could lead to a dangerous carbon monoxide leak into your home.
5. Lubricate and clean the blower motor.
First, check the owner’s manual to see if your motor is the kind that needs lubricating. If it does, turn off the power, open the cover and clean the caps covering the bearings. Then remove the caps and lubricate the bearings.
6. Test the igniter switch.
On an old system, you might have to relight the pilot. Newer systems have electronic ignitors. If the ignitor isn’t working, push the reset button. If that doesn’t do the trick, check your breaker. Still not working? Call in a Green Apple Mechanical professional.
7. Inspect the chimney and carbon monoxide detectors.
Chimneys can house carbon buildup or even small animals. A Green Apple Mechanicalprofessional should inspect them periodically. Routinely test or replace carbon monoxide detectors as well, as they help protect you from the “silent killer.”
8. If you have an oil-powered furnace, replace your filter and nozzle and check the tank level.
“Unlike gas-fired systems, oil units require oil filter changes, burner nozzle cleaning and a pretty thorough heat-exchanger brushing to keep them running efficiently since oil doesn’t burn as cleanly as gas. Green Apple Mechanical NJ has been serving the NJ area for years with professionalism and expertise for years. Customer service and care are always our number one priority. If you have any questions or concerns regarding any of your HVAC or plumbing needs call toll-free @888-611-7191
Children are out of school, and there are summer barbecues and gatherings of friends. We host family reunions, graduation parties, wedding celebrations, visits and other occasions. We go on vacation and look forward to all the warm-season fun.
All of the activities mean increased traffic in your home, including many more flushes of the toilet, loads of clothes to wash and dishes to clean. You’re bound to use the hose more in the summer to fill pools, water flowers and sprinkle the lawn. Many people also need to take more showers during the summer months.
Too often, we run around worrying about the meat rub and tablecloth color for our parties and never question whether the home’s utilities are ready for all the extra summer traffic. Plumbing remains as one of the most important of those utilities, because the system of pipes and pumps that brings water to us and sends it away are essential to basic sanitation and nutrition. One unpleasant plumbing problem can cancel out the best food and most beautifully appointed table.
Trouble with the pipes can range from common and simple to unusual and complex:
Clogged toilet, garbage disposal or drain
Leaky facets or spigots (often need an O-ring)
Low/declined water pressure
Loose toilet, sink or other fixture
Incorrect grade of drain pipes
Improper support of pipes, which sometimes makes a hammering noise
Pipes to outside not sealed sufficiently
Water heater fails, leaks or doesn’t heat
Pipes burst or crack
Pipes won’t flow due to obstruction
There are many proactive, preventative plumbing measures you can take to prepare for the warm months and make sure you spend most of your time enjoying them instead of worrying about leaks, clogs, low pressure and other plumbing problems. No matter the concern, it’s best to figure it out and address it early before it becomes a big, expensive problem.
Besides, most good hosts want to avoid summer plumbing issues and make sure they have working facilities for their guests. Start summer by doing what you can to make sure your plumbing is up to the increased workload warm weather brings.
1. Inspect for Leaks
Summer is the best time to check for leaks, since a long winter can have an impact on plumbing that we can’t even see, and you want a chance during warm weather to take care of any issues before it gets cold again.
Individually inspect each of the elements that use water inside and outside of your house: Faucets, pipes under the sink, shower heads, bathtub spigots, drinking water line, water softener, hot water heater, outdoor spigots, sprinklers, pool and more to see if they are in good working order. Look for rust, corrosion, leaks, broken or bent parts or other signs of trouble. Grab a bright flashlight to see underneath cabinets and in dark corners. It also helps to have a towel to wipe your hands and a few tissues to help you detect moisture.
For the toilet: Put food coloring in the tank to see if it leaks to the bowl without you flushing the toilet. Check the tank floater and the valve it’s attached to. The rubber float and its arm-like hardware wears out over time, and more quickly in hard water situations. The floater valve must be seated correctly, or it allows water to leak out and your toilet to run — It probably makes noise while it does so.
Straddle the toilet and with both hands and try to wiggle it back and forth and see if the floor feels soft or spongy. If so, it might indicate a leak underneath at the crucial wax seal between the toilet and pipe that discharges waste to the sewer or septic system. It’s not uncommon for these to be seated incorrectly or erode to the point where they leak.
In the bathtub: See if the grout is all around the edge and securely sealed to the wall tile. Any little chip or missing portion of the grout enables water to leak into places it should not, like underneath the tub or onto and into the wall. Press on the wall tiles of the shower where they meet the bathtub and make sure nothing moves and the wall does not feel soft. If you detect loose tiles or a spongy wall behind them, it can be an indicator of an unseen water leak.
At the water heater: Check the water heater for signs of leakage, rust or other problems. Look at the hardware and other parts and see if there is any corrosion. Use a bright flashlight to inspect underneath and around the bottom, and/or you can run your hand all around and under the base to see if you feel water. A typical, tank-type water heater lasts 10-15 years depending on the model, level of maintenance and the kind of water running through it.
Hard water can cause mineral deposits to build up and impede water flow, so it helps to clean off any accumulated materials occasionally. Sediment builds up on the bottom of the hot water heater tank but can be flushed out every so often by releasing a few gallons of water from the bottom of the tank. It is also possible to change the anode rods in a tank water heater as a means of maintenance or service. If you are constantly running out of hot water and you find it’s time for a replacement, consider moving to the next-largest tank and/or having a heat-on-demand system.
If summer means you will leave the house for a short- or long-term vacation, you can either turn off or adjust your water heater to save money. Why pay to heat water you won’t be there to use? Most water heaters have a switch or dial toward the bottom that might have a setting that says “vacation” or “low,” and nearly any model can be turned off. Also, if summertime at your house means everyone wants a shower not quite as hot as during the cool seasons, you can bump down the temperature of the hot water heater a few degrees and save money on electricity or whatever fuels the heater.
For the overall system: If you suspect a leak but can’t see one, there are a few ways you can test the water system in your home. Pick a time when nobody will be home for at least 15 minutes, if not an hour or two, and a time when nothing that uses water needs to be running. Before you leave the house, check the water meter and jot down the numbers. If the numbers are the same when you return after a while, there probably aren’t any unseen leaks. If the numbers change, it can indicate a problem. Another way is to track the gallons and other usage statistics provided on your water bill.
If your yard seems saturated in one particular area, it’s possible the water is coming from the buried water pipes. In that case, you would want to consult your water utility or a licensed plumber, because it’s never good to just start digging without a professional assessment. Plumbers can run a video camera through any water or sewer pipe to inspect them, which doesn’t take long but can reveal a lot. A video inspection would show, for example, calcium deposits, cracks or breaks within the water line.
2. Pinpoint the Pressure
With all the activity that your shower, washer and other utilities will see in a summer season, it’s even more important to maintain good water pressure. You can check and measure the household water pressure with a store-bought gauge that you attach to an outside spigot. Generally, the household standard is 40-45 pounds per square inch and should not exceed 60 psi.
Between your home and the main water line is a pressure regulator to keep the high-pressure water supply from bursting into your home. A typical regulator is preset for 50 psi. You, your water company or your plumber can adjust the regulator if, for some reason, it’s the culprit for pressure that’s too high or too low. If you elect to do it yourself, you should have a partner at the spigot to test the pressure as you adjust it. If you’re trying to increase the pressure, you don’t want to go too far with it, or you risk damage to your water utilities and appliances.
There is also the less precise testing trick of turning on the bathtub and kitchen spigots at the same time to see if the water runs more slowly in either place. That can be an indication that a pressure problem exists. If you determine your water pressure is low, consult your local water utility and ask if they’re doing any work in the area or have had complaints about low pressure. Often, there is a project or other temporary effect that causes the drop, and it returns to normal after a period of time.
3. Check Sprinkler Systems
Check sprinkler systems thoroughly for leaks — plus, inspect and clean the sprinkler heads at the beginning of the season. If you find any that are broken, not working, rusted or damaged, you can remove the head and replace it. Take the old one to the store with you or have it in front of you if you’re shopping online. Check for any letters or numbers it may have on it.
Sprinkler are notorious for wasting water because they sometimes spring leaks underground, where we can’t see that they’re leaking. Besides driving up your water bill, a faulty sprinkler or line can kill your grass, because it can’t survive on too much or too little water. Re-open the system slowly at summer’s start and then test the zones one at a time as you watch the sprinkler heads and the direction of each. You don’t want water running to the foundation or onto the home itself.
Some sprinkler systems may have a rain sensor already, and you can add one to the others. This helps avoid the silly scenario of having your sprinklers running during or right after a big rain storm.
4. Get to Know the Main Water Valve
It is always good to know where the main water shutoff to your home is located and how to use it. Some homes have a shutoff valve within the structure, such as the basement, garage or utility closet. Others have one outside in the yard or near the water main in the street, curb or sidewalk. You can also consult a plumber during your next call and ask them to show you where it is.
The main valve typically looks like a wheel with spokes that you turn to the right, or a lever that you turn until it’s perpendicular with the pipe it’s connected to. You can always turn it off and then go try to run water somewhere. If the water does not run, you were successful in shutting off the main valve.
Should anything happen with any of your water-using appliances or areas of the home, you want to be able to stop the water so you can deal with the emergency. If you leave home for any length of time, like for summer vacation, the best insurance you can have against water mishaps and flooding while you’re gone is to turn the water off at the main valve before you leave.
Plumbing runs through the walls and under the house and can cause costly damage if a pipe or part of a utility springs a leak or bursts while you’re gone. If the main valve is open, the water will continue to spew, but not if the main valve is shut. Another reason some people want or need to turn it off is to protect against water theft.
If you have some utility that requires you to leave the main valve open, such as a swimming pool or sprinkler, then it’s a good idea to just have someone check occasionally and make sure nothing goes awry inside the house.
You can also cut off the supply to most of your water-using appliances somewhere at the individual appliance. At the toilet, it’s usually a lever or faucet handle behind it near the wall, and the same with the washing machine. Most sinks have a valve in the water line, which are usually underneath in the cabinet, near the wall.
5. Avoid Clogs
Learn the cause of any slow drain or weak flush issues during warm weather, and prepare for routine clogs with plungers and even an inexpensive three-foot auger for when the plunger doesn’t work. The auger should be used carefully, so as not to crack the vitreous china of the toilet, but it or the plunger will handle most normal clogs. If they don’t, you probably need a professional to snake or inspect it and find the problem.
If your toilets flush slowly, or you’ve seen grey water gurgle into the tub during or after a heavy rain, that’s probably cause to call a professional for an inspection. Tree roots are drawn to the nutrients in septic or sewer lines, and can grow into them and cause trouble.
Cracks can also develop in the pipes that will allow water in and prevent the pipe from doing its job. The worst-case scenario is the sewer or septic pipe backing up into the bathtub, and sometimes other drains. It’s a scenario nobody wants to envision, but can happen and smells very badly if and when it does.
Most parents feel happy when their child gets past the diaper stage and takes to the potty. Many experts suggest that the training should continue for small kids, so they know how much toilet paper to use, and to reinforce the lesson as they begin summer vacation. It helps for them to know little things, like the difference between facial tissue and toilet paper, and how one goes in the trash can and the other goes in the toilet. Naturally, parents teach their kids not to put any foreign objects down the toilet, but there are toilet lid locks to help until a child has outgrown that temptation.
For kitchen sinks, many times the clog forms in the U-shaped part of the pipe beneath the sink. You can try a pitcher or pan of very-hot water to get the clog moving and then try a clog-clearing chemical product after you read its warning label and directions. If you first turn the water off, either the main valve or just that sink, you can unscrew the p-trap and sometimes clear the clog manually, since that u-shaped part is often where kitchen sink clogs form.
For bathroom sinks and some bathtubs, beware of hair clogs either just inside the drain or further down the line. Sometimes, you can clear the ones near the top by hand or with a firm grip on a big pair of tweezers. You can also try a drain-clearing product before calling a plumber — just be sure you read the product label and find one that matches your needs.
If you have any questions or concerns regarding any of your HVAC needs please feel free to contact your friends at Green Apple Plumbing NJ toll free at 888-315-5564